The PC desk

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Waxman
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The PC desk

Postby Waxman » Wed Mar 04, 2015 4:53 am

Stage 1 of 5

The first stage is the false wall behind the desk to hide cords. It is also the foundation to each of the five stages. My design must be spot on or nothing will fit.
Pardon me if I drone on a bit as I am trying to keep an accurate log and build by design. This will be my weekend project. Please look over my materials list and make suggestions on anything I forgot. Remember this is the wire management stage only, does not include sides, hutch, hutch shelf, or desktop.

Tools required
Power Drill (Corded or cordless) with a phillips head driver
Table Saw
Circular Saw (all cuts can be made on table saw)
Small hole saw kit or wood drill bit (do not use bit for metal)
Complete socket kit or Hex Wrench kit (No pliers or vice grips)
Adhesive spray, or brush on adhesive (for neoprene attachment)
Tape measure
Pencil or dark ink wood marking pen
Dremel or wood chisel set

Optional tool
A stress ball or something else you can destroy when working.

materials
4 foot high x 8 foot wide x 3/4 inch thick hardwood ply (quantity 2)
1.5 inch wide x 3.5 inch x 6 foot length (aka 2 by 4, quantity 5)
1-1/2-in Metallic Corner Brace (quantity 36)
50-Count #5 x 0.5-in Flat-Head Black Interior/Exterior Wood Screws (quantity 6, total 300 screws)
15-Count #9 x 1.5-in Flat-Head Black Interior/Exterior Wood Screws (quantity 2, total 30 screws)
4 inch long 1/2 head size fine thread bolt (quantity 8)
1/2 inch fine thread lock nuts (quantity 8)
1/2 inch flat washer (quantity 16)
Expanded Polystyrene Foam Board Insulation (quantity 1)
Shop Fox W1322 Anti-Vibration Pad 24-Inch by 36-Inch, Black (Neoprene pad for anti scuff on wall surface, quantity 2)
Waxman 4-Pack Polypropylene Non-Swivel Furniture Furniture Glides for carpet (set of four)
3-ft x 1-3/8-in Plated Steel Slotted Metal Flat Bar (quantity 2)

Cuts (plywood)

Cut each ply to 58 inch wide by 36 inch high Mark pieces F and B
Cut one (1) piece B again into two pieces 29 inch wide by 36 inch high. Mark pieces BL and BR
Cut two 8 inch cuts of of the second piece of plywood (F). You should now have an additional 2 pieces of plywood at the dimensions of 8 inch wide by 36 inch high. Keep new pieces. Mark pieces FL and FR. drill a 1/2 hole precisely at 9 1/2 on center fro, both the top and the bottom edges 3/4 of an inch from the outside edge. Total of four (4) holes.
Cut 15 inch of the top of the 42 inch wide 36 inch high plywood piece (F). Dimension of the new piece is 15 inch high and 42 inch wide. Keep new piece. Mark piece FT
Cut 4 inch off the 42 inch wide by 21 inch high plywood. New piece should be 4 inch high by 42 inch wide. Keep. Mark FB
Piece F should now have the dimensions 42 inch wide by 17 inch high. This is center piece for pull off of completed unit to uncover cords when you need access..

Cuts (2 by 4)

Cut one 58 long, then cut 58 inch piece into two (2) 29 inch lengths. Keep. Mark pieces SBL and SBR.
Cut one (1) 51 inch long, then cut 51 inch long piece into two (2) 25 1/2 pieces. Keep. Mark Pieces SCL and SCR
Cut two (2) at 20 inch long. Keep. Mark pieces STL and STR. Hole saw, bore, or drill a bolt hole through at 4 inch from each end of STL and STR for bolt pass through.
Cut four (4) at 13 1/2 inch long. Keep. Mark STIRR, STIRL, STILL, and STILR
Cut four (4) at 3 1/2 inch long. Keep. Mark STIL, STIR, STINL, and STINR
Cut four (4) at 2 inch long. Keep. Mark FS1, FS2, FS3, and FS4
Cut two (2) at 15 inch long. Keep. Mar SSTL and SSTR notch out 1 inch deep by 2 1/2 wide on edge at 7 /12 inch on SSTL and SSTR. Hole saw Drill or bore a whole direct center of each notch for bolt to pass trough.
Cut two (2) at 4 1/2 inch long. Keep. Mark SSML and SSMR
Cut two (2) at 15 inch long. Keep. Mark SSBL and SSBR notch out 1 inch deep by 2 1/2 wide on edge at 7 /12 inch on SSBL and SSBR. Hole saw Drill or bore a whole direct center of each notch for bolt to pass trough.

end of cuts

Assembly
Set piece BL on flat work surface. Apply adhesive to one neoprene pad and press firmly on pad to adhere. Set piece BL with the neoprene attached aside, set piece neoprene face down.
Set piece BR on flat work surface. Apply adhesive to one neoprene pad and press firmly on pad to adhere. Set piece BR with the neoprene attached aside, set piece neoprene face down.
Place piece BL on flat work surface neoprene face down. The 36 inch high should be in the up-down position. The 29 inch wide should be right-left. Using two 1 1/2 inch corner braces, attach piece SBL at the bottom width of piece BL. The piece SBL should be in the horizontal along bottom edge of piece BL. The 1 1/2 inch corner braces should be spaced at the 1/4 and 3/4 width of SBL. Secure with six (6) #5 screws.
Place one (1) 4 inch long 1/2 head size fine thread bolt and one (1) flat washer through notch in piece SSBL. Secure bolt with one (1) flat washer and one (1) fine thread nut, finger tighten only.
Using two (2) 1 1/2 corner braces, attach piece SSBL notch with bolt facing to the sky. Position piece SSBL on piece BL on the Left edge just above piece SBL. Piece SSBL should be in the vertical position


More to come, need a break
Last edited by Waxman on Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Captain Glume
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Re: The PC desk

Postby Captain Glume » Wed Mar 04, 2015 3:52 pm

Ooooh sounds great! But one thing you may want to consider. Have an exhaust port that pulls the heat from the PC out of the room altogether BUT at the same time has a baffle that will allow you to pipe that heat into the room in winter. Might as well take advantage of that heat when it is needed.

Just a dream of my perfect setup... 8-)
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Solaias
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Re: The PC desk

Postby Solaias » Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:45 pm

I don't know how much woodwork you do so this may be a redundant suggestion, but I'd recommend using a small drill bit to drill pilot holes for the screws. Not only does it make it easier to screw them in, you reduce the chance of splitting the wood. Try to get a bit that is slightly bigger than the centre part of the screw, but still leaves plenty of the thread to bite into the wood.
Don't you ever tame your demons, but always keep them on a leash.
Waxman
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Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
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Re: The PC desk

Postby Waxman » Wed Mar 04, 2015 7:10 pm

@ Captain Glume
Yes that would be ideal, but as I live in an apartment it just is not feasible. When I get my house I will have it vented to the outside, using a insulated PVC exhaust.

@ Solaias
Pilot holes are going to be utilized when not using self tapping screws
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Captain Glume
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Re: The PC desk

Postby Captain Glume » Wed Mar 04, 2015 8:55 pm

Ah yes...

I have thought about having a water cooled pc with the radiator outside...
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Waxman
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Re: The PC desk

Postby Waxman » Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:16 pm

Captain Glume wrote:Ah yes...

I have thought about having a water cooled pc with the radiator outside...


Pc will be dual loop with 1 using a 480mm rad push pull with 8 silent fans, for the cpu/chipset/ram blocks. 1 r using a 480mm rad for the GPU 4- way sli. Rad will be push pull with 8 silent fans.

Server will be single loop 480 mm rad push pull with 8 silent fans cooling all components

Loops will be custom, meaning no all in one.
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Waxman
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Re: The PC desk

Postby Waxman » Mon Mar 16, 2015 10:12 pm

Stage 1 is 50% cut
Cordless tools have a strange habit of dying, and my dad loaned out the other batteries along with my drill. I was looking for them and he says "Oh, the tools, I loaned them to a friend.
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Solaias
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Re: The PC desk

Postby Solaias » Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:05 am

Waxman wrote:Stage 1 is 50% cut
Cordless tools have a strange habit of dying, and my dad loaned out the other batteries along with my drill. I was looking for them and he says "Oh, the tools, I loaned them to a friend.

That was nice of him. :D
Don't you ever tame your demons, but always keep them on a leash.
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Reaper
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Re: The PC desk

Postby Reaper » Sat Mar 21, 2015 10:48 pm

Can't wait to see this :)
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Waxman
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Re: The PC desk

Postby Waxman » Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:03 am

Built the cord false wall, had to stop and charge the batteries so many times today. But stage one is done
have pics up tomorrow
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